Winter Is a Perfect Time to Eat These Cheeses

AS A CHEESEMAKER I know once put it, cheese is a very complicated way of converting solar energy into human fuel. She was making light of the assiduous ecosystem-wide collaboration required by her craft, which demands plenty of sunshine, water, grassland and the labor of at least two animal species, ruminant and human.

Made from the milk of animals who graze on lush pasture during spring, summer and fall, Alpine and Alpine-style cheeses epitomize the spirit of sun-to-table. They age anywhere from several months to several…

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